Lapland
Lapland can polarise people’s opinions, the idea either strongly appeals to some or is strongly unappealing to others. If you are reading this then it is likely you are in the former camp and I confirm to you that whilst visiting Lapland is a tiring experience, it is also in a clichéd word magical and you’ll be making memories with your children that they will never forget.
Lapland in the tourism sense seems to heavily focus on Finnish Lapland although the true meaning of Lapland encompasses Finland, Sweden, Norway and Russia. Before we visited I did research Swedish Lapland to keep costs down but settled on Finnish Lapland with TUI mainly due to direct flights. Knowing what I know now, I would build my own trip and save a lot of money.
This page aims to help you to visit Lapland for up to half the price of a package holiday or help you to decide that you want to go with a package and the benefits that come with that. It should also give you some tips for travelling with 3 children.
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Summary: Levi, Finland, for its direct flights with Easyjet
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Summary: January would be cheapest or over Christmas could be slightly cheaper
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Summary: Direct flights with Easyjet is easiest with 3 children. 2 flights could be the cheapest option however.
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Summary: Source own Airbnb 12 months + in advance for pleasant accommodation for family of 5
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Summary: Self catering accommodation allows you to save by shopping at nearby supermarket
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Summary: Package holiday will give you a lot of gear or buy your own for the future
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Summary: Sledge for free in Levi. Arrange an independent visit to Santa’s Workshop
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Summary: Amazing
For more information child’s perspective is in pink
Where to go
The capital of Finnish Lapland is Rovaniemi, with a population of 60,000 however we wanted a more authentic experience and opted for Levi with a population of 600. There are other options in Saariselkä with an even smaller population and rural location however ultimately it will be flights that dictate your location to a certain degree.
As previously stated, the main reason we decided to travel with TUI was due to the direct flights but as we will discuss later there are more options in this department than first appearances would suggest. The other thing to consider is that the further north you travel into the Arctic Circle, the heavier the snowfall can be. Rovaniemi is just outside the Arctic Circle whilst Levi is most certainly in it.
For us we had a tough journey travelling to Levi as a snowstorm closed Kittilä airport, which resulted us being diverted to Rovaniemi to wait on the runway for it to pass. I only mention this so you are prepared for it if it happens to you.
In summary, Levi was a beautiful location and I would not hesitate to return. It felt remote, had a good blend of eating options and activities and a big bonus for us is that Levi is home to Finland’s largest ski resort. An added bonus was the 15 minute transfer time from the airport after a 3 and a half hour flight.
Some Finnish Lapland destinations 1/3
Walking around Levi 2/3
Walking in Levi 3/3
When to go
Many people visit in December as part of the build up to Christmas, but be aware this is when the trip is likely to be the most expensive. In truth the first snow in Levi arrives by middle of November at the latest, with the ski season running until early May which gives you an indication of snow cover. LeviLapland on Instagram, always post when the first snow arrives and they also have some unsanitary pictures of people kissing reindeers.
We opted to go over Christmas as bizarrely, at the time, this was the cheapest option, excluding January, with regards to a package holiday, presumably due to the extra planning involved.
We went for 4 nights. I could not imagine what we’d have felt like doing it in less time. As I explain in the section below, if you have a hard journey due to the conditions then that could have an even bigger effect on a shorter trip. If you opt for the day trip, be aware that this will be tiring.
Remember that from 10th December to 3rd January Levi is in Polar Night, meaning the sun does not come up. It does get some light for up to 3 hours depending on the weather but if you get seasonal affective disorder, please bear this in mind. Also remember that the further North you go in Finland, the longer the Polar Night will be.
Was it busy?
It was at meal times but on the streets and sledging it felt quite quiet.
Did you like being away for Christmas?
For a change it was nice. We went home on Boxing Day so saw people then. It felt very special to be away for Christmas in the snow.
Did you miss the light?
No, I liked it being dark because it felt fun and different.
Unsanitary reindeer interactions 1/2
As light as it gets 25th December 2/2
Getting there
We went with TUI for the direct flights but there are temporary routes that are run by other airlines. This is the way it goes with flights to Lapland, there doesn’t seem to be a degree of certainty as to when and if the route will be open and with which particular airline. This can make planning difficult and probably results in people travelling with the package companies.
However, there are solutions. First and foremost, you need to book your accommodation as this sells out quickly, but be 100% sure that you have free cancellation. Some sites offer free cancellation for 48 hours after booking so be careful. Then sign up to Easyjet’s newsletter as they inform you of their flight release dates. With Easyjet you can now fly directly to Rovaniemi and Levi. Once you know your flight dates, you can tweak your accommodation for free if needed. Just remember to price the flight with baggage so you can compare costs with packages effectively.
Hopper is a clever app that allows you to watch a flight and notifies you when the cheapest price becomes available by analysing past data.
I was vehemently against non direct flights at the time. However, recently we travelled to Trysil in Norway via Copenhagen seamlessly which has opened my eyes with regards to multiple flights to a destination. Don’t get me wrong, I would not opt for a 21 hour journey, but it could be worth considering. Kayak is a useful flight finding website. As is Flight Connections in that it allows you to see on which days various flight connections can be made.
Finally, I have known people to fly to Helsinki and then get an overnight train Rovaniemi on the Santa Claus Express night train. It takes roughly 11 hours, leaving normally around 8pm and arriving at 7am. You can make your way to Levi from here. The night trains are operated by VR. This didn’t appeal to us with 3 young children but some would see it as an adventure and it could be worth pricing as a comparison. My only concern here would be that a journey such as this with 3 children would leave you tired on arrival. I have done sleeper trains in Asia. You are not going to sleep the same on a train as you would in a bed, you’d arrive early and wouldn’t be able to check in until the afternoon.
It’s worth noting that Finland is 2 hours ahead of the UK which doesn’t sound like much but in 4 days you basically don’t adjust. Therefore, not to state the obvious but we got up around 8am which was actually 6am UK time.
Try to book a flight that means the kids are getting up around a normal time to save energy and stock up on snacks for the plane in case of adverse weather.
How was the journey?
Long, but it made getting there extra special. It was only long because of the snow storm.
Accommodation
We stayed at the Sirkantahti Hotel in Levi (see below). On first appearances it was very pleasant and only an 8 minute walk to Zero Point, which is at the bottom of a ski slope in the center, where lots of people sledge.
At times of high demand, the hotels will sub let people’s holiday apartments. Therefore we were in a separate block 4 minutes away from the Sirkantahti which meant a 12 minute walk to Zero Point.
Hotel Sirkantahti 1/4
Hotel Sirkantahti 2/4
Hotel Sirkantahti distance to Zero Point 3/4
Hotel Sirkantahti distance to our room 4/4
The tip here is to check with your hotel where you are actually staying. Truly, Levi is fantastic in that there are sledges dotted around the town that are free to use. This is great in that you can use the sledges to pull the kids around town, negating any walking time.
The true issue, as I will revisit in the clothing section, is that to walk anywhere in -25 °C you have to suit up. We stayed next door to family, and unbelievably you could not knock on their door and wait for them to answer, you had to knock and then rush back to your own room 0.5 seconds away. The other thing to consider with the sledges, is that the kids aren’t moving if they are being pulled along. This significantly shortens the time that kids can be outside before they need a warm break. It would have been easier, especially being half board and with kids, if our room was in the same building as reception and the restaurant.
The accommodation was an Economy apartment (see below) and therefore quite basic. It did have a sauna but be careful, lots of people have set the fire alarm off when using it which results in a fine. The steps upstairs were steep so the kids had to sleep downstairs, but they did love going upstairs as they said it felt like a treehouse. The drying cupboard was a huge plus. On returning home I managed to find the accommodation for £80 a night online which is probably a fair price. I can confirm, TUI charged us a lot more than that; this is a big area that you can save on.
Economy room Hotel Sirkantahti 1/2
Economy room Hotel Sirkantahti 2/2
In hindsight Levi Hotel and Spa, for its swimming pools, or Levi Panorama, for its remote location, would have been our preferred choices. I’ll discuss Levi Panorama in more detail in the activity section. However, we were constrained by the fact that as a family of 5, these salubrious hotels only cater for families of 4. Therefore, if we were to visit again I would find a nice but reasonably priced Airbnb or Vrbo apartment. I’ve included a link to a nice Airbnb apartment, remember to book well in advance, possibly 13 months ahead of time. Also check bed sheets and cleaning are included.
Be careful of apartments in the centre as some are above a bowling alley / bars and can be noisy.
What did you think of the accommodation?
It was very warm, with floor heating and was very cozy. However, the stairs were quite dangerous if you had children. If I could change one thing about this hotel, I would add a bit more space, meaning the stairs wouldn’t have to be so steep.
Levi Hotel Spa 1/3
Hotel Levi Panorama 2/3
Hotel Levi Panorama 3/3
Eating
As stated in the previous section, we were half board as we were concerned about the cost of food in Finland. This possibly saved us a lot of money, however, be aware you are bound to meal times.
I’m always a fan of choosing where to eat on an evening. However, a breakfast option is always worth considering if you are confident this can fill you up meaning you only need a light lunch. If our accommodation had more self catering facilities we would have made use of the supermarket that we stayed opposite from. Food and drink is more expensive in Finland. A pint was €10, a large pizza €17.
The kids wanted to trythe pancake house, Pannukakkutalo Levi (see below), however it was extremely popular as was the secret Cafe Laavu near Levi Panorama. Even the walk and mystery to find Cafe Laavu is worth it though, the start of the path is at (what 3 words) ///flattened.observance.blurry. More information on which gondola to get to reach Cafe Laavu, can be found in the activities section.
We did have a nice snack in the Cafe at Zero Point near the ski hire (the kids loved the bakery type snacks) and the pizza at Levi Panorama was fantastic. In truth, there are lots of options to eat out.
What was the food like?
It was nice. I didn’t like the sausages they have in Lapland but everything else was nice. I wasn’t interested in eating reindeer on Christmas Day.
Pannukakkutalo 1/6
Pannukakkutalo location near Zero Point 2/6
Mysterious walk to Cafe Laavu 3/6
Cafe Laavu 4/6
Cafe Laavu 5/6
Pizza at Hotel Levi Panorama 6/6
Clothing
TUI rent you snow boots and a thermal suit included in the price. This was a huge secondary reason for choosing TUI.
However, I’m telling you, those suits are a curse. Not only do you look like a car mechanic but you have to get yourself suited before you suit the kids because these places are so well heated. That means, by the time you are ready to leave, you are already sweating cobs. When you are arrive at your destination (breakfast for example), as the adult, you are last to take your suit off and ready to down a litre of water.
Little did I realise that when we visited Lapland, something awoke within us a family that meant we felt drawn to snowy destinations. Had I known this at the time I would have purchased our own boots and ski pants / salopettes. That would have meant that you could put your coat on last minute and take your coat off as soon as you entered a warm building. However, there is a cost to that, not to mention the space that the kit takes up in luggage.
When we visited the temperature was colder (-25 °C) than ASDA’s freezers (-17 °C). Therefore this is what you would need to wear when out and about:
Were you cold?
As we were all geared up and had lots of layers on, I wasn’t cold. In addition, we were constantly moving, which helped me to stay warm. The suits were hard to put on though.
| Item | Adult | Child |
|---|---|---|
| Snood (a must) | Male link, Female link | Kids link |
| Waterproof ski gloves | Male link, Female link | Kids link |
| Thermal base layers top and bottom | Male link, Female link | Kids link |
| Hat | Male link, Female link | Girl link, Boy link |
| Snow boots | Adult link | Kids link |
| Ski pants (sometimes called salopettes) | Male link, Female link | Kids link |
| Ski jacket | Male link, Female link | Girl link, Boy link |
| Thermal socks | Adult link | Kids link |
| Fleece | Use own | Use own |
| Jogging bottoms | Use own | Use own |
| Jumper | Use own | Use own |
| Two t-shirts | Use own | Use own |